This golden hulless barley from our Lonesome Whistle Farm bean and grain CSA has a nutty flavor and enough virtuous, whole grain appeal to justify a rich and cheesy accompaniment. Growing up, one of my mother's weeknight pantry meals was Julia Child's salmon gratin (from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, volume 1). It consists of a rich, creamy roux, laced with white vermouth, into which you fold canned salmon and sauteed mushrooms, followed by a heavy sprinkling of gruyere cheese. My mother always served her salmon gratin with white rice, but my sister later made the improvement of using nutty brown rice. Julie Powell's Julie/Julia Project (no longer on line) derided this dish as grey and sludgy, but I feel that she entirely missed the point. Here's a dish that transforms a lowly tin of salmon into exquisite haute cuisine. It may not be pretty, but it tastes delicious.
Unfortunately, when I made this salmon gratin for my kids, they, like Julie Powell, could not get beyond the sludginess. This got me thinking about how I could repackage it, and my golden barley offered the inspiration. Barley, I realized, could provide the same nuttiness of brown rice, and also a sticky heft to bind together the salmon into a crispy cake. To recreate the decadent cream and mushroom flavor of the original dish, I made a sauteed mushroom, vermouth-infused, creme fraiche garnish. And to keep the dish from being too rich, I served the cakes on a bed of lemony greens. Biting into one of these Julia-inspired cakes brought back a flood of childhood memories, but with a satisfying crunch.
Salmon and Barley Cakes a la Julia
Makes 12 cakes
for the salmon and barley cakes
1 cup barley (best is golden hulless, or use pearled barley)
2 cups water
1 medium shallot
1 Tbsp butter
1 egg
2 ounces of gruyere cheese, grated
4 sprigs fresh oregano
6 ounce can of skinless, boneless salmon
plenty of pepper
1 cup panko (divided use)
olive oil for frying
1 medium shallot
1 Tbsp butter
1 egg
2 ounces of gruyere cheese, grated
4 sprigs fresh oregano
6 ounce can of skinless, boneless salmon
plenty of pepper
1 cup panko (divided use)
olive oil for frying
for the mushroom cream garnish
8 ounces cremi mushroom
1 Tbsp butter
salt and pepper
¼ cup white vermouth
¼ cup crème fraiche
salad greens
fresh lemon juice
1. The evening before cover the barley with cold water
and soak overnight. The next day, remove any loose hulls that
have floated to the top and drain off the water. Add 2 cups fresh water and a
generous pinch of salt, bring the barley to a simmer, and cook, covered, for
about 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Check the barley for doneness. It will
probably still need another 5 to 10 minutes to cook, but if it is still quite
watery, you can remove the lid at this point and finish cooking while letting
more of the liquid evaporate. When the barley is tender but still has a firm
bite, turn it off. You will have more that you need for this recipe, so save
some for salads or as a side dish or freeze for another batch of salmon
cakes. Measure out one cup of
cooked barley for this recipe and transfer to a large bowl and allow it to
cool.
2. Peel and chop the shallot in a small dice. Heat a skillet
over medium heat, melt 1 Tbsp of butter, and sauté the shallots, with a pinch
of salt, until very soft, but do not let them brown. Add these to the bowl with
the barley.
3. Clean and slice the mushrooms. In the same pan that you
cooked the shallots, melt another Tbsp of butter and now sauté the mushrooms
over medium heat, with a pinch of salt and plenty of freshly ground black
pepper. Let the mushrooms release their own juices and keep cooking them until
the liquid cooks down. Now add the white vermouth and cook the mushrooms until
this has cooked down. Turn off the mushrooms and let them cool. When the
mushrooms have cooled, put them in a food processor with the crème fraiche and
pulse a few times to create a textured paste. Reserve the mushroom cream for
serving.
4. Now your barley should be cooled down enough to mix in an
egg. Then mix in the grated gruyere cheese, oregano leaves, salt and freshly
ground pepper. Break the salmon into flakes with a fork and gently mix this
into the batter, along with the juices. Now use your hands to gently mix in
about ½ cup panko, or more if the batter feels too moist. Form the batter into
12 patties, about two inches wide. Gently roll these in more panko and place them
on a parchment paper or silpat covered cookie sheet and chill them in the
refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. This will help them firm up and make frying them more manageable.
5. Heat a skillet over medium high heat. Add about 4 Tbsp of
olive oil to generously cover the bottom of the pan. When the oil is
shimmering, place half of the cakes into the pan. Now leave them alone for a
good 5-8 minutes until they are nicely browned (don’t be tempted to flip them
too soon). Flip and cook until the second side is nicely browned as well.
6. While the salmon bakes are cooking, toss the salad greens
with lemon juice and a small pinch of salt, and arrange on plates. When the
salmon cakes are done cooking, place on the bed of greens and top each cake
with a large dollop of the mushroom cream.
No comments:
Post a Comment